![\"backpacking](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/alinja-castle.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\nAzerbaijan, the ultimate Caucasian country and, probably, one of the least visited places in both Europe and Asia, is a fascinating and unique country, as it is the place where East literally meets West.<\/p>\n
A real blend of Europe, the Middle East<\/a><\/strong>, and the Soviet Union, for years, people have struggled to figure out where it actually belongs:<\/p>\n Is it part of Asia or, perhaps, Europe?<\/em><\/p>\n Well, the truth is that you really can\u2019t tell, because the imaginary line that separates Europe from Asia goes through the middle of Azerbaijan.<\/p>\n This imaginary partition is not only geographical but it has also defined the cultural lifestyle of the Azerbaijanis who, due to their geographic location and history, have adopted customs from both continents.<\/p>\n After going\u00a0backpacking in Azerbaijan<\/strong> twice, I have compiled all the places I visited in a 1 to 3-week itinerary, including plenty of places off the beaten track.<\/p>\n For practical information about the country, such as transportations tips, visas, budget, etc. check: When to go \u2013<\/strong>\u00a0If you want to visit the mountains, the best to visit is from April to October, or only summer, if you want to do some trekking. In Baku<\/a><\/strong> and around, the climate is continental, which means that summer is utterly hot and winter extremely cold.<\/p>\n Therefore, unless you want to do some serious trekking, mid-spring, and mid-autumn would be the ideal time to go backpacking in Azerbaijan.<\/p>\n Visa for Azerbaijan \u2013<\/strong> When I first visited the country in 2016, you had to apply through the classic embassy process but now, since January 2017, the Government has liberalized its visa regime and most countries can apply\u00a0for an e-visa through this portal<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n Typically, it costs 25USD and takes 3 working days. The urgent visa costs 50USD.<\/p>\n How to move around \u2013<\/strong> Backpacking in Azerbaijan is very easy, as there is a wide public transportation system, even to the remotest towns and villages.<\/p>\n Typically, locals travel in marshrutkas, the small mini-vans from the former Soviet Republics. They leave once they are full and are very, very cheap. Local shared taxis are also common.<\/p>\n Going to Georgia? Here\u2019s everything you need to know for traveling to Georgia<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n Azerbaijan is an adventurous destination, so go there with the proper travel insurance and I strongly recommend IATI Insurance<\/a><\/strong> because:<\/p>\n Most travelers I met were backpacking in Azerbaijan for just 7 days.<\/p>\n No problem because a 7-day Azerbaijan itinerary is enough to get a decent feeling of the country.<\/p>\n CLICK HERE<\/a><\/span><\/strong> to see the interactive map<\/em><\/p>\n Once the world\u2019s top oil producer, today Baku is a modern metropolis that will leave the visitor more than surprised.<\/p>\n Despite being a Muslim capital, it has only a small number of mosques, which means that Baku is mostly secular but people are still quite traditional.<\/p>\n From a pretty, historical old city, to the most extravagant luxury buildings and all sort of pubs, bars, and restaurants, Baku has it all.<\/p>\n Looking to visit Baku with a tour? You can visit the Old Town, where\u00a0you can find perfectly restored\u00a0buildings from the 7th century; stroll down the promenade, visit ancient temples or\u00a0check out some futuristic buildings.<\/p>\n For more information, I wrote a very comprehensive guide:<\/p>\n Things to do in Baku in 3 days \u2013 A complete guide<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n Backpackers Hostel<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013\u00a0Sahil Hostel<\/span>\u00a0\u2013 A very busy hostel, as it is cheap and the facilities are great. It is also a cool spot to meet fellow-travelers.<\/p>\n Click here to check prices<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n Budget Guest House<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013\u00a0Khazar Old City Guest House<\/span>\u00a0\u2013 A beautiful traditional house in the heart of the old city. Recommended for couples or those who are on a budget but don\u2019t want to stay in a hostel.<\/p>\n Click here to check prices<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n Mid-range Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013\u00a0Denize Inn Boutique Hotel<\/span> \u2013 The boutique hotel with the best reviews in town, also located in the old part of Baku.<\/p>\n Click here to check prices<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n Top-end \u2013\u00a0<\/strong>Four Seasons<\/span>\u00a0\u2013<\/strong>\u00a0Located in a very beautiful building, this is\u00a0the best 5-star hotel in Baku.<\/p>\n Click here to check prices<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n Located 50km south of Baku, Qobustan is one of the country\u2019s top tourist sites for having some of the most ancient petroglyphs ever found, but also, this is the place where you will discover the real ex-Soviet Azerbaijan.<\/p>\n I recommend you come here on a day trip from Baku<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n Petroglyphs \u2013 <\/strong>During the Stone Age, around 12,000-15,000 years ago, when the Caspian coast was richer and more fertile, a big group of hunters settled down in a set of caves in which they carved more than 600 petroglyphs (from the Greek words petros<\/em> meaning \u201cstone\u201d and glyphein<\/em> meaning \u201cto carve\u201d).<\/p>\n Today, many of these stone carvings still remain and, the Qobustan Petroglyph Reserve has become a UNESCO-listed Heritage Site.<\/p>\n Mud volcanoes \u2013 <\/strong>Azerbaijan has the largest mud volcanoes in the world, which are formations created by geo-exuded mud<\/p>\n For further information (history, how to get there, etc.), read my article: Qobustan: Petroglyphs and Sovietism<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n By the way, if you want to make things easier, there is a pretty cool tour that takes you to: A region with immense historical importance, the Greater Caucasus has some of the most beautiful scenery in Europe and, in Azerbaijan, Quba is one of its main gateways.<\/p>\n Located 180km north of Baku, Quba is a small city and a great base for exploring the Caucasian villages around it.<\/p>\n Read: Iran \u2013 1 to 4-week itinerary<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n You need to take the metro to Avtogavzal<\/em>, which is the main bus station.<\/p>\n The buses to Quba cost 6AZN (3.50USD) and the journey takes 3 to 4 hours.<\/p>\n Quba doesn\u2019t really have touristic sites but it is a very local city with a great bazaar and a very tangible local vibe.<\/p>\n Some travelers prefer to stay here and then do day trips to Laza or Xinaliq, while the most adventurous prefer to stay in a mountain homestay.<\/p>\n I decided to stay in Quba for 4 nights because I came in November and it was cold in the mountains.<\/p>\n If you are short of time, you could actually skip Quba and go straight to Xinaliq from Baku, stay there overnight and come back to Baku on the next day.<\/p>\n Otherwise, I recommend you spend the first night here, check out the local vibe and go to Xinaliq on the day after.<\/p>\n Where to stay in Quba<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n Guest House \u2013<\/strong> House in Quba<\/span> \u2013 A great, traditional guest house, a bit expensive for solo travelers but it has 3-bedroom rooms which are great value for money.<\/p>\n Click here to check prices<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n Xinaliq is a lovely Caucasian village located at 2,350 meters above sea level which, if you count it as part of Europe, would be the highest village in the continent.<\/p>\n Xinaliq is not only surrounded by the most striking scenery in the country but also, its inhabitants belong to a different ethnicity and speak a distinct language.<\/p>\n You can come here on a day trip, no problem, but you can also stay in one of the many warm homestays.<\/p>\n As per things to do, day treks are plentiful and\u00a0maps.me<\/a><\/strong> shows quite a few trails that can be completed in a maximum of 2 or 3 hours.<\/p>\n Xinaliq is a must-to-see in your Azerbaijan itinerary.<\/p>\n There is no public transportation and the road is a muddy mountain road, but an amazing one.<\/p>\n In high season, you can find local shared taxis but I came out of season and had to go on a private taxi. In 2016, I paid 30AZN (18USD) for a round-trip taxi. The waiting time was pretty much the whole day, basically because the driver was from there and he had some business to do.<\/p>\n In 2018, they were already asking for\u00a040AZN (23.50USD), which is understandable, as the tourists in the area have increased exponentially.<\/p>\n There are quite a few homestays in Xinaliq, most of them being brand-new.<\/p>\n One piece of advice is that you should choose a guest house that includes breakfast because those that charge it separately ask for a lot of money for every meal.<\/p>\n Click here to see all available homestays in Xinaliq<\/span><\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n Laza is another Caucasian village, not as high as Xinaliq, but very beautiful as well.<\/p>\n In winter, it becomes the most popular ski resort in the country, so there are all sorts of accommodation, from budget lodges to 5-star hotels and homestays.<\/p>\n The village itself, nevertheless, is still untouched and there are many day-trek opportunities.<\/p>\n Some readers of Against the Compass who didn\u2019t have a lot of time asked me whether I would recommend Laza or Xinaliq. Both places are equally pretty but Xinaliq is higher and the road to reach it is epic, so I would choose Xinaliq.<\/p>\n Like Xinaliq, visiting Laza from Quba requires a full day, so plan accordingly.<\/p>\n Read: Azerbaijan travel tips<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n A one-way taxi costs 15-20AZN (9-12USD).<\/p>\n If you want to go by public transport, you first need to take a bus to Gorus (1AZN, 20 minutes).<\/p>\n From Gorus, you have two options: either take a direct taxi to Laza (10AZN) or catch the noon bus to Kozam.<\/p>\n You should let the driver know that you are going to Laza, so he will tell you where to get off. From there, you have to walk up the road for around four to five kilometers but you can hitchhike.<\/p>\n Read: Kazakhstan \u2013 1 to 4-week itinerary<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n There are, of course, many marshrutkas going back to Baku<\/a><\/strong>. If you miss the last one, there should be local shared taxis. The taxi station is outside of the bazaar and the bus station is here: 41.371446, 48.553006<\/em>.<\/p>\n If you are backpacking in Azerbaijan for 2 weeks, after Quba, you can go all the way to Sheki and Zaqatala and visit some cool spots in between.<\/p>\n CLICK HERE<\/em><\/a><\/span><\/strong> to see the interactive map<\/p>\n Already explained but, if you have 2 weeks, I would definitely stay 1 extra day in Baku and even 1 extra day in the mountains around Quba.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n Home to artisans and blacksmiths, Lahic is the Azerbaijani capital of handicrafts, a region that, due to its harsh mountain climate and isolation, developed other types of subsistence.<\/p>\n Lahic is a medieval-looking town full of handicraft shops that can only be reached through a spectacular road that goes along the edge of some very jagged, frightening cliffs.<\/p>\n The landscape is composed of velvet-smooth rolling hills, similar to Kyrgyzstan<\/a><\/strong>, so trekking here is dope.<\/p>\n You can actually trek from Lahic to Xinaliq in 2 days and, apparently, it is a really awesome trek, but you should only attempt if you have some experience, as there is nothing in between, so you need to be self-sufficient. The trail is on maps.me<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n Again, marshrutkas leave from the main bus station in Baku<\/strong><\/a>. The easiest way would be to take one to Ismaili and, from there, find a second marshrutka or local shared taxi to Lahic.<\/p>\n Ismaili is located after the intersection that leads to Lahic, so a more adventurous and quicker way would be getting off before, at that intersection, and hitchhiking (or waiting for a marshrutka) from there.<\/p>\n Homestay \u2013\u00a0<\/strong>Ancient Lahij Guest House<\/span> \u2013 Lahic is about homestays and this one is the most comfortable and recommended, run by a lovely local family that makes amazing local, warm meals. Look no further.<\/p>\n Click here to check prices<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n As an intrepid, travel nerd, I loved Ivanovka. <\/p>\n Most people don\u2019t, but I do.<\/p>\n Ivanovka is, in fact, not a place for everyone but, if you are interested in history and dark tourism, you are going to absolutely love this place, as it has a significant population of Molokans<\/a><\/strong>, a Christian branch, or a sect, from eastern Europe, mainly Russia, that didn\u2019t get along with the Russian Orthodox Church.<\/p>\n Two centuries ago, during the Russian Empire, the Russian Orthodox Church kicked the Molokans out of Russia and, for some reason, they all ended up in a small village called Ivanovka, located in today\u2019s Azerbaijan.<\/p>\n In Ivanovka, most signs are in Russian and many of its inhabitants are blue-eyed blonde people.<\/p>\n The main reason to come to Ivanovka is to visit the collective farms<\/strong>.<\/p>\n And what is a collective farm?<\/em><\/p>\n To make it even more surreal, this is one of the very few places in the world where Soviet collective farms still exist.<\/p>\n You can also find them in Belarus and here you can read my travel guide<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n Basically, they are farms which, during Soviet times, were controlled by the Soviet government, meaning that they were like public companies where the farmers were just employees.<\/p>\n Today, these farms are fully functional and not much has changed since the Soviet Union: they still use the\u00a0same rusty machinery and people working there are employees. To be honest, the ownership is partially private now but I was told that the Government still has a big share.<\/p>\n Technically, visiting them is not allowed but you can sneak in very easily. The complex is huge and, if a worker sees you, he won\u2019t say anything to you<\/p>\n On my second visit, in 2018, I entered the complex twice and spent one hour there until a big guy with a fancy car came and, gently, kicked me out. He was a big boss but workers just ignored me.<\/p>\n Many people have emailed me saying that they either didn\u2019t find it or they were not allowed to get in. The reason is that the main entrance is secured by a guard, so you need to enter from the other side:<\/p>\n The yellow pin is John & Tanya Guest House. Seriously, if you have the time, don\u2019t miss Ivanovka in your Azerbaijan travel itinerary.<\/p>\n From Baku, take a marshrutka to Ismaili, located on the main road, 22km from Ivanovka.<\/p>\n Once there, take a taxi to Ivanovka, which shouldn\u2019t cost you more than 3-4AZN. Hitchhiking is also possible. I did it on the way back.<\/p>\n Budget Guest House \u2013 <\/strong>John and Tanya Guest House<\/span> \u2013<\/strong>\u00a0The owner is a young local guy from Baku (son of Tanya). It is a good guest house. I stayed here twice, in 2016 and 2018. The rooms haven\u2019t changed much but, when I first came in 2016, they were offering local home-made meals which were delicious. In 2018, they have a set menu that mostly consists of international food, so that was a huge downgrade for me.\u00a0<\/p>\n Click here to see the latest prices<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n Also situated in the heart of the Caucasus, Sheki is, by far, the most tourist-friendly destination in Azerbaijan, as it\u2019s home to a large cultural heritage, defining almost 3,000 years of Azerbaijani history.<\/p>\n Sheki was an important marketplace on the Silk Road, linking the Caucasus with Russia.<\/p>\n Awesome day hikes, the best local food and beautiful medieval architecture which reminds one of many villages in Europe, make Sheki a must place to visit.<\/p>\n Most cultural heritage can be found inside Sheki\u2019s fortress and the Palace of Shaki Khans, which used to be the Khan\u2019s administrative building, is claimed to be the most iconic building in South Caucasus and, also, a UNESCO-listed site.<\/p>\n Around 10 kilometers from Sheki, Kish is a lovely village with tile-roofed houses and stone pavements, located in a valley that looks towards high-altitude snowy peaks.<\/p>\n Kish can be easily visited on a day trip from Sheki. I walked there and took me around two hours, with frequent stops.<\/p>\n The village has a beautiful cemetery with epic valley views.\u00a0<\/p>\n The most iconic building in Kish is an Albanian church, which was built by the commonly called mysterious Caucasian Albanians, a Christian nation that once lived in the northern part of Azerbaijan.<\/p>\n From Ivanovka, you must go back to Ismayili and get off at the exact same place where the bus coming from Baku<\/strong><\/a> dropped you off.<\/p>\n Simply, wait there for any local bus going to Qabala. From Qabala, take a second bus to Sheki.<\/p>\n
Travel guide to Azerbaijan<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n![\"itinerary](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/backpacking-in-azerbaijan-1.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\nQuick tips for backpacking in Azerbaijan<\/h2>\n
![\"road](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/road-xinaliq.jpg\")
Travel Insurance for Azerbaijan<\/h2>\n
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Backpacking in Azerbaijan \u2013 1-week itinerary<\/h2>\n
Places to visit in Azerbaijan in 7 days \u2013 Map<\/span><\/h3>\n
![\"Azerbaijan](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Screenshot-2022-04-21-at-17.30.14.jpg\")
Day 1, 2 \u2013 Baku<\/h3>\n
CLICK HERE to find the best-guided tour<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n![\"things](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/best-places-to-visit-in-baku.jpg\")
Things to do in Baku<\/h4>\n
Where to stay in Baku<\/h4>\n
![\"what](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/trip-to-baku.jpg\")
Day 3 \u2013 Day trip to Qobustan<\/h3>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/petroglyph-qobustan-tribal-dancing.jpg\")
Things to see and do in Qobustan<\/h4>\n
petroglyphs + mud volcanoes + an ancient mosque from the area<\/strong>.
CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE<\/span><\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/reed-boat-petroglyphs-qobustan.jpg\")
Day 4, 5, 6 \u2013 Quba, Xinaliq, Laza<\/h3>\n
How to get from Baku to Quba<\/h4>\n
Quba<\/h4>\n
![\"trekking](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/trekking-azerbaijan.jpg\")
Xinaliq<\/h4>\n
![\"what](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/xinaliq-azerbaijan-1.jpg\")
How to get to Xinaliq from Quba<\/h4>\n
Where to stay in Xinaliq<\/h4>\n
![\"Homestay](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/azerbaijan-travel-blog.jpg\")
Laza<\/h4>\n
How to get to Laza from Quba<\/h4>\n
Day 7 \u2013 Back to Baku<\/h3>\n
![\"Azerbaijan](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/azerbaijan-backpacking-budget.jpg\")
Backpacking in Azerbaijan \u2013 2-week itinerary<\/h2>\n
Things to do in Azerbaijan in 2 weeks \u2013 Map<\/span><\/h3>\n
![\"things](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Screenshot-2022-04-21-at-17.31.37.jpg\")
Day 1 to 8 \u2013 Baku, Qobustan, Quba, Xinaliq<\/h3>\n
Day 8, 9 \u2013 Lahic<\/h3>\n
How to get to Lahic from Baku<\/h4>\n
Where to stay in Lahic<\/h4>\n
Day 9, 10 \u2013 Ivanovka<\/h3>\n
![\"Ivanovka\"](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/ivanovka.jpg\")
What to actually do in Ivanovka<\/h4>\n
![\"Ivanovka](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/ivanovka-azerbaijan-1.jpg\")
The red pin is center of the actual Collective Farm complex.
The green pin is where you can access from.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Screenshot_20190119-103445-1.png\")
How to get to Ivanovka from Baku<\/h4>\n
Where to stay in Ivanovka<\/h4>\n
![\"Collective](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/collective-farms-ivanovka.jpg\")
Day 10, 11, 12 \u2013 Sheki and Kish<\/h3>\n
![\"Sheki,](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/sheki-old-town.jpg\")
Visit Kish on a day trip<\/h4>\n
![\"Kish](\"https:\/\/againstthecompass.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/cementery-azerbaijan-kish.jpg\")
How to get from Ivanovka to Sheki<\/h4>\n
Where to stay in Sheki<\/h4>\n